26 February 2012

pleased to meet you

My apologies to my small yet faithful group of readers; I've finally dragged myself out of the university library and off the beach, essentially the two places I've been finding myself lately, to sit down in front of a computer to update my blog! Let's see if I can get back into the rhythm of blogging regularly again!

In the United States, at least where I grew up, we tend to be somewhat cold when greeting people. We often shake hands or sometimes simply say "Hello!" when meeting someone new. Maybe we exchange a hug with a friend we haven't seen in a while. However, one of the first things I notice when traveling is how such greeting customs differ from place to place and region to region. Between exchanging words, hugs, all different forms of kisses, handshakes, bowing, waving, head nods, pats on the back, knocking fists, it can get a little complicated, before you add any gender, generational, social, and contextual stipulations as well! In many places, learning how to "faire la bise" ("make/do the kiss" in French) is an artform, and can get kind of tricky.

(Source)

First off, in many places, it's not really a kiss. It's more like you touch cheeks while making a kissing noise, in many cases making sure the rest of your body doesn't touch. In Spain, for example, it's two kisses from the right to left cheek exchanged between two women, and between a man and a woman. Men typically don't exchange kisses. This is the norm for pretty much every time you meet someone or see someone you know. In Puerto Rico, the same rules apply, except just one kiss with the right cheek is exchanged, however I still catch myself giving two kisses here in PR every once in a while out of habit! Many countries in Latin America follow this same custom as well. Sounds simple enough, right?

However, when meeting and greeting friends from Greece, France and Brasil, and many other countries, make sure you offer your left cheek first, or you might end up in an awkward position where you either almost end up smacking lips or do this awkward dance à la when you come across someone on a sidewalk and you both try to let each other pass. But wait, there's more! In Switzerland, people typically exchange three kisses, L-R-L, and in France, the number of kisses can vary a lot depending on the region as well. Additionally, in some places like Italy, exchanging cheek kisses between to men is common, often accompanied with a pat on the back.

Number of kisses in France(source)

Although some people from the US might feel uncomfortable, I never really minded exchanging kisses. I find it gets rid of any awkwardness about meeting a new person. In other instances it can be a bit of a rollo, for example, when you walk into a room of 15 friends and have to exchange individual greetings with everyone, rather than in the States where one general "Hey everyone!" will suffice. Oh yes, and it must be repeated when you leave as well!

Then there's the added complication of being a foreigner. Sometimes you might go for the kiss, but they offer their hand to shake, knowing that it's what's common in the States. And what about meeting another foreigner in a foreign country? Do you follow the rules of the country you're in, or the culture of that person? Now all this kissing business isn't so black and white after all! In some instances, I've gotten away with hand shaking or not kissing everyone being a foreigner (mostly out of laziness, I admit).

And what about meeting another Unitedstatesian while abroad? With many girls from the States I've met who also live in "kissing countries", we end up exchanging kisses. But what about with the guys? Even more complicated, as sometimes it crosses some kind of cultural comfort line in certain instances. Most of the time, it ends up turning into a comical situation where nobody really knows what to do anyway! How about when going back home? On my visits home, I find myself going to exchange a cheek kiss with friends who are often taken off-guard by it!

Here's a somewhat funny clip in French (with English text in the "Comments" portion on the YouTube page) about how to faire la bise in France. See how complicated it can be!



What do you think? Are there any different customs when it comes to meeting and greeting people where you are? Please note that these are just my observations based on the people I know; let me know if you have a different point of view!

19 January 2012

Word of the week: janguear

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It's been a while since I've done one of these! I've decided to get back in the swing of posting Puertoricanisms now that the holidays are winding down.

This week's "word of the week" is the verb janguear, or janguiar. For those of you who don't speak Spanish, j is pronounced like h, so the word sounds like "han-gee-ar".  It comes from the expression in English "to hang out": jang, from the word "hang", plus the Spanish verb ending -ar. From this verb, we also get the noun jangueo (han-gay-oh), or "hang-out".

Both of these are expressions are extremely popular among younger generations, and are now pretty much mainstream. In good Puerto Rican, used in a sentence it would be something like:

Mano, vamo' a janguear este wikén! 
[Bro, let's hang out this weekend!]

14 January 2012

How to Survive the Fiestas de San Sebastián

Puerto Ricans enjoy a good party. Where else do the Holidays last about a third of the year?! However, all of that pales in comparison to the four-day extravaganza in the middle of January, the Fiestas de la Calle San Sebastián, or "SanSe" as they are referred to locally. Think of it as a type of Mardi Gras, just without the beads. There are lots of food, libations, music, dancing, parades, and artisans selling their work. As Puerto Rico's largest festival, hoards of people come from all over the island to celebrate while Old San Juan is converted into one giant party.

While preparing to go, my friends started to scare me a little bit with all their warnings, as going to a party with tens and tens of thousands of "friends" can get a little tricky. Although I chalked some of it up to good ole' Puerto Rican exaggeration, it definitely helps to know what you're doing. This is my survival guide to the San Sebastian Street Festival!






1. Ditch the car and get there early. Many of the streets are blocked off, parking is essentially impossible, and the traffic that forms is insane, all creating for a nightmare if you plan on going in your car. The Metropolitan Area Transportation Authority does a good job at organizing buses that go from the Sagrado Corazón train station directly to Old San Juan. My suggestion is to get there about an hour before you want to arrive, and take the guagua (word for bus in the Puerto Rico). It costs $0.75 per trip, and there are lots of busses shuttling back and forth, and they have an extended schedule during the fiestas.

Be prepared for a sea of people

2. Take a breather! The heart of the party takes place on San Sebastián Street, naturally. This and the surrounding streets are the most crowded, and at night it's like a sardine tin. If you're feeling a little claustrophobic, head to the "southern" streets of OSJ to escape.

The Islet of Old San Juan, Calle San Sebastián in green

3. Leave the heels at home. Probably the only time you will see puertorriqueñas out without high-heeled shoes. Because of the intense crowds, tricky cobblestone streets, and the amount of walking that is done, comfort is paramount. It's also insanely hot. Wear sneakers, shorts, and a comfortable shirt.

4. Check out the live music, but get to the stage early. All of the main plazas of Old San Juan are converted into different stages featuring all different types of music, either live or DJs, with tons of variety to satisfy all types of musical tastes. Check out the list of performers and arrive early to get a good place! 

José Feliciano was the artist to whom the fiestas were dedicated this year

5. Drink a lot. And not just beverages of the alcoholic type. It's important to stay hydrated so bring lots of water to be able to make it through the festival.

6. Cabezudos, vejigantes, y gigantes, oh my! Make sure you see a parade! Several times a day (check the schedule) there are parades with typical Puerto Rican figures: Cabezudos are giant papier-mâché head masks that are often satirical in nature, vejigantes are masked, clown-like figures, and gigantes are stilt-walkers. These figures, especially the vejigantes, are very traditional Puerto Rican symbols.

Cabezudos ("Big Heads") (Source)
Vejigantes (Source)

7. Take care of business at home. There are lots of porta-potties available but, as you can imagine, they are not a pretty sight after hundreds of festival-goers have used them. You get the picture. If you're slightly germaphobic, bring along your sanitizer.

8. Cash is key. Food, drink, and the artesanal crafts are almost always paid for in cash, so come prepared. 

9. Less is more. While walking among a sea of people, for reasons that concern security and convenience, you are best advised to leave as much home as possible. Take as small a purse as possible, or keep your belongings in your pockets if possible. 

Just a sample of what the fiestas are like!

10. Relax. Did all that stress you out? 'Cause it did me! Grab an empanada, take it all in, and enjoy. These fiestas might not be for the weak-of-heart, but they are lots of fun.

Puerto Rican fritura: sorullitos, alcapurrias, empanadillas, bacalaitos, tacos, and much more.

06 January 2012

Llegaron los reyes!

As mentioned earlier, the holidays in Puerto Rico are still going strong with lots of parranda and lechón. I've been busy because my parents surprised me with a visit for New Years, so I've been acting as tour guide showing them around the Island.

(Source)
Today is Three Kings' Day, or el Día de los Reyes Magos. Puerto Rican children traditionally leave a shoebox filled with hay, straw, or grass under their bed the night of January 5th for the Three Kings' camels. The Three Kings take empty the shoebox and leave the children presents if they've been good. Lucky ducks, they just celebrated Christmas a few days ago too! During the day, families get together to celebrate, which of course means lots of food. Most cities have a big parade and the Three Kings process through the town. At the mall, taking a picture with Santa Claus has been replaced with Melchor, Gaspar, and Balthazar.  ¡Feliz Día de Reyes!

29 December 2011

2011 through a lens

As 2011 comes to a close, I would like to share some of my favorite pictures from the year. Although not without its ups and downs, 2011 was a fantastic year, full of new people, experiences, food, and places. Here's hoping you all have a great 2012!


 Brandenburger Tor
Berlin, Germany

El Peine del Viento
San Sebastián, Spain


Tenerife, Canary Islands


Paris, France


View from the Arc de Triomphe
Paris, France


La Alhambra
Granada, Spain


Porto, Portugal


Philadelphia, Pennsylvania


Museo do Pobo Galego
Santiago de Compostela, España

Calle Tetuán
Old San Juan, Puerto Rico


Fuente Raíces
Old San Juan, Puerto Rico

26 December 2011

Trullas, aguinaldos, and villancicos, oh my!

As promised, I am posting more about parranda. (I'm actually keeping a blogging promise!) To recap: during a parranda, a group of people, or parranderos, get together to surprise neighbors, friends, or family, generally late at night. The family then invites them to stay, eat, and celebrate. After an hour, or sometimes much more, everyone leaves with the neighbors in tow and goes to another house, the group growing larger as the night goes on, with lots of singing, eating, drinking, dancing, and celebrating. Often times, this continues until dawn! 

A parranda with a friend and her enormous family in Naranjito, a town the mountainous center of the Island

The songs sung during a parranda can vary a lot in terms of genre of music and theme of the song. Although I don't understand all of the complexities of parranda music, I'll give it a shot. Feel free to correct me! First, there are villancicos, which would be most similar to Christmas carols in English, and are slower and more traditional. Many of them come from Spain and are well-known through other Spanish-speaking countries. Aguinaldos are Puerto Rican Christmas songs, often accompanied by traditional Puerto Rican instruments such as the güiro and the cuatro (a type of guitar unique to PR), and other types of instruments depending on the group, such as guitars, tambourines, maracas, bongo drums, the congo drum, and potentially many others. Finally, trulla is another word for parranda. Some of the songs are very traditional and very Christmasy, while others have very little to do with the holidays. Food and drink is a large theme of the latter types of songs.

It wouldn't be a parranda without some fritura!

Want to see what a parranda looks like? These clips on YouTube herehere, and here should give you an idea. Also, the following clip is a commercial with a humorous take on parranda. Even if you don't know Spanish, you get the picture! The song they're singing is a take on the universally-known chant that repeats the chorus "Si no me dan de beber, lloro!" ("If they don't give me anything to drink, I'll cry!").



I hope everyone is enjoying the holiday season wherever you are! What are some unique holiday traditions where you are?

23 December 2011

Why Puerto Rico Does the Holidays Better

Christmas is only two days away, but that means that the holidays are just getting started here in Puerto Rico. It's nothing like what I grew up with, the images of chestnuts roasting on an open fire and winter wonderlands galore. I have come to conclude that in many ways, the holidays in Puerto Rico trump those in the States, and here's why:

1. Christmas doesn't end on December 25th. In Puerto Rico, the holiday season essentially extends from November to the end of January, so go ahead and leave those lights on! Between Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve (Nochebuena), Christmas Day (Navidad), New Years Eve (Nochevieja), New Years Day (Año Nuevo), Three Kings Day (Día de Reyes), las octavitas, the Feast of San Sebastián, las octavonas, it seems to never end, in a good way.
Boricuas stopping for some street food while Christmas shopping in Old San Juan
2. Parranda. I will write more on this later, but parranda is Christmas caroling gone wild. There are no slow and melancholic carols here. A group of parranderos get together to asaltar or surprise neighbors or friends, generally late at night, with lots of instruments typical to Puerto Rico in hand. The parranderos are then invited to eat and celebrate for a while with the neighbors until they all leave with the neighbor to another person's house, and the chain continues often until the sun rises.

3. Fiestas navideñas. Just like pretty much everything that has to do with Christmas here, the holiday parties are over the top as well. I have never been invited to so many in my life; professors, my graduate program, work, friends, family, friends of family, the novio's work, etc. Everyone tries to get together during this time. Similar to parrandas, they're loud; involve lots of music, food, and drink; and generally don't end until you should be waking up. It can be a frustrating time to be in Puerto Rico if you're trying to get stuff done, as everywhere is crowded, the traffic is unbearable, lunch breaks become unusually long, and there's a general preoccupation with holiday festivities. 

4. Los reyes magos. Like other Spanish-speaking countries, December 25th is only a small part of Christmas. On January 6th, Three Kings Day is celebrated, and often lasts for three days, one day commemorating each king. Many Puerto Rican children are lucky ducks and get presents on both holidays!
Los Reyes Magos and Christmas Decorations in Old San Juan (Source)

5. Food and drink. So what do boricuas look forward to eating and drinking during the holidays? For starters, there's almost always: lechón asa'o (roasted pig), arroz con gandules (Puerto Rico's national dish, a type of rice and beans), pasteles (similar in appearance to Mexican tamales, except wrapped with banana leaves and with very different fillings), and all kinds of delicious Puerto Rican frituras (assorted fried deliciousness). For dessert, tembleque, a type of coconut custard, is almost universal, along with coquito, a drink similar to eggnog but made with coconut and rum.

Traditional Puerto Rican Christmas meal Lechón, salad, pasteles, pan de ajo, and arroz con gandules

6. Grapes at midnight. Like in Spain, 12 grapes are eaten at the stroke of midnight for good luck. This is the third year in a row I've been in a Spanish-speaking country for New Years and have done this, and I swear by it!


7. Celebrating the holidays by going to the beach. Enjoy the best time to go to the beach in Puerto Rico now that hurricane season is over and people have some time off!
Playa Flamenco, Culebra
8. Aires navideños. Everywhere you go people seem... friendlier. Although Puerto Ricans are very outgoing and friendly to begin with, everyone wishes each other felicidades, even to strangers.


But don't take my word for it, ForbesTravel+Leisure, CNN, and millions of Puerto Ricans agree. Hope everyone is having a great holiday season!